Home » FK8 Civic Type-R Drop-In Turbocharger Upgrade: Part 2

FK8 Civic Type-R Drop-In Turbocharger Upgrade: Part 2

  • Honda

As many of you have probably seen on our social media, we strapped our CT-R back on the rollers a few days ago after a much needed clutch install to continue testing our prototype drop-in turbocharger upgrade with Hondata’s new EGT Air Charge Reduction Disable update. Though we are still make great power per PSI of boost and still at relatively moderate boost, today we reached what we currently feel is the end of the road pushing the limits with the factory fuel system (and stock engine). A built engine and fuel system upgrade(s) could really show what this turbocharger is capable off. We see no reason that this turbo can’t reach 500+ horsepower.

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We managed to put down 463 horsepower and 413 ft/lbs torque with a target boost of 24 PSI at peak torque, tapering to 27 PSI at redline to keep the torque dialed back for safety/longevity. – Boost reference = MAP

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We tried to make various adjustments in an effort to break the 470+ horsepower barrier, but simply could not. However, this setup consistently made power despite the adjustments that were thrown at it.

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Run 6 was our first run where we crested the 450+ horsepower mark (with a bit more torque than expected). You can see that the graph looks rather jagged and erratic. During this run the fuel system was at its limits, with the DIFP maxed almost the entire run, which caused the ECU to fluctuate in and out of open loop. We found a happy medium in Run 7 when we dialed back requested torque, increased start of injection timing and decreased midrange fuel pressure to keep everything happy. The next two runs we attempted to push things a bit further with minor tweaks, but could not due to DIFP maxing out and kicking the ECU into open loop after “peak” horsepower around 6200 RPM. At this power level/RPM, the stock fuel system is 100% at its max.

On our quest for even more power, we figured we would try a run this morning with slightly cooler air temps and a cooler engine without any other changes. However, Run 10 did not allow us to meet our goals. Instead, this run provided us with some interesting information that we would like to share with the community.

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It appears that the Civic Type-R’s ECU is constantly in search of charge air, not actual boost. Though we did not change requested torque (which ultimately creates the boost curve) tables during the last 3 runs, Run 10 logged between 1-1.5 PSI less boost than run 9, with identical AIRC. After reviewing the last 3 logs, we noticed that AIRC remained identical with minor variances in actual boost. The Type-R’s ECU is smart enough to quickly compensate for variances in air temperature, densities, etc., which means that this setup will safely make consistent power regardless of weather, climate and elevation.

We are excited to see what this car can do at the drag strip, stay tuned for results!

8 thoughts on “FK8 Civic Type-R Drop-In Turbocharger Upgrade: Part 2”

  1. We have a ton of news to release here very shortly, as this drop-in turbocharger has quite a few major changes that we are excited about. A new post will be made once our renderings are complete.

    As for the injectors, Hondata also has a fuel system upgrade that they will be offering. These are a great idea for those looking to not run race fuel, use ethanol or make even more power. We’d be curious to see more data on those injectors posted.

  2. Thanks for the response. I was aware of Hondata’s system however, I was looking for a more cost effective solution. With that said I did confirm with Ty that the Fuel injectors actually came out of a Ford Taurus Ecoboost (of all cars). He did confirm that they function perfectly with no leaks albeit rich (untuned). He gave me a part number of CM-5248 which I will be ordering once I get my Flashpro (again). Will keep you posted.

  3. The fuel injectors aren’t the issue, they still have plenty of room to work. If you look at your data logs, injector duty will be in the 40% range at full power. It’s the actual DIFP that’s the bottleneck. It would be nice if hondata offered the fuel system without the unnecessary injectors or the low pressure in tank pump. Hopefully 4 piston (or any other manufacturer) can make one for the bosche ECU. Their motec one is around $1,500. Otherwise port injection with a controller would be the most affordable option.

    Can’t wait to get some new info on the drop in upgrade. Would be ideal since you wouldn’t have to get a custom kit like if you got one with a Garret for example and needed a custom intake, downpipe, ic charge pipes and fittings.

    Also can’t wait for my dang HVI and titanium inlet to ship… It’s only been forever…

  4. Adam, I caught that. I’m Just going to go ahead and move toward Port injection. Looking at Split second injector controller. Was trying to figure out a solution without going to Motec. I agree also from my calculations you could actually do port injection for a lot cheaper than Hondata’s kit.

  5. Thank you for the valuable information. I look forward to reading more. I’m kind of assuming that at this time, you’re keeping the car a reasonable street beast, something that could be a daily driver. Based on that, which clutch did you install, or what would you recommend to handle around 400 HP, or a tad more, reliably and hopefully maintain a reasonably comfortable day to day presence…like, my wife can still drive it now and then?

    I’m also curious about boundaries. For example, it was established long ago by VitViper and many other folks tuning 9th gen Civic Si’s that the k24, properly tuned, was reliable up to around 400 crank HP. As I recall, Vit liked to keep daily drivers under 350 HP at the wheels because he knew it was reliable at that level. My wife and I also own a Vit-tuned 2015 Si that runs like a scalded dog.

    That preface leads to the question, barring fuel system limitations, and with the addition of an appropriate clutch, etc., is there an estimate or established amount of power (HP, torque) the FK8 CTR K20 engine can handle reliably? I’d be quite happy to replace the clutch and even the fuel pump if that helps, and still keep it in the 400 HP range, more or less, if that’s safe and reliable. If 375 HP is better, I’m fine with that. If 425 is good, my smile just grew wider. Trying to identify a safe target-goal.

    Oh, even if we’re not looking for enough power to require adding something like Hondata’s port-injection add-on system, should we consider changing the fuel pump along with the clutch? If it’s not necessary for that safe, reliable amount of power, please disregard. But, if even at that power level, it’s a good idea, I’ll make it happen. Just need a pump recommendation.

    Thank you for your time and assistance.

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